The Routine Linen
Everyday linen
“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
What is Linen?
Superior agricultural crops since time immemorial
Linen is a textile product made from a certain plant. The plant is flax, or flax in English. From flax, fiber is extracted to make yarn, which is then woven into cloth. The cultivation of flax has a long history: fragments of linen textiles dating back 36,000 years were discovered in a cave in present-day Georgia, in the Caucasus region between the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea. 7,000 years ago, flax was cultivated in ancient Egypt, as evidenced by wall paintings and mummies excavated there. Thus, flax is an agricultural crop that has been cultivated since prehistoric times. The fiber that becomes the thread is located just inside the epidermis of the plant's slender, straight stalk, the part of the plant that is like insulation for a house. These fibers are soft and silky, and their suppleness prevents the stem from breaking. The fiber is also hollow, which allows it to hold and release water and air. Fibers with these functions are bundled together to make yarn and then woven. The fabric is supple, yet absorbs water and dries quickly, and by containing air, it naturally regulates temperature. Flax normally grows only with natural rainfall. It is a very sustainable plant that has a low impact on both the economy and the environment because it does not require irrigation projects such as pumping water from rivers, lakes, or even underground for watering purposes. The seeds can be used to make linseed oil, making it an excellent agricultural crop with little waste. France is the largest grower of flax , and its center is in the Flanders region, which extends into Belgium. These three countries, plus the Netherlands, currently grow 85% of the world's flax.
Flax flowering. The seeds can be used to produce flaxseed oil, which is an excellent agricultural crop that has no parts to be thrown away.
Flax stalks refined after harvesting. The fiber contained within becomes linen, which is a very difficult process that requires many steps and know-how to extract.
A fiber bundle called sliver before being spun into yarn. It is shiny and very beautiful. It is smooth, supple, soft, and warm.
History tells the value of linen
Linen has a long history and is said to be the oldest fiber in the world. Today, it is the only vegetable fiber produced in Europe, and it is also a rare fiber, accounting for only 0.4% of all fibers used in the world. Linen, with its long history and rarity, has been closely associated with many historical figures. In ancient Egypt, linen was treated as a sacred fabric, and murals of its cultivation can still be seen in the pyramids. The mummy of Tutankhamun, the great discovery of the century, was dressed in pure white linen, a symbol of holiness. Alexander the Great of Greece and Macedonia successfully expanded his territory by making linothorax, a very hard armor made of layers of linen cloth and oxidized with linseed oil. It is said that Julius Caesar was so impressed by the high quality of linen fabrics in Flanders, which he visited during the Gallic Wars, that he gave the country its name, Berrigy. The Turin Sacred Cloth, which is said to have wrapped the body of "Jesus Christ," is made of linen. The Bayeux Tapestry, a famous historical artifact of 11th century France and England, is a 50cm wide by 70m long linen cloth embroidered with a magnificent story. The Bayeux Tapestry is a famous historical artifact of 11th century France and England. In modern times, Queen Elizabeth wore a white plain-weave linen garment called the Corrobium Sindonis at her coronation, in keeping with the tradition of the British royal family. Linen has been used for sacred occasions since ancient times and has been used by historical figures on important occasions. Today, linen is treated as an important textile, so much so that it is sold as antique linen and vintage linen.
Mural depicts flax cultivation
In the time of Alexander the Great, linen armor was the standard defensive equipment of the heavily armed infantry armies of the Greek city-states
The Flemish region was called Bel'ch, which means flax in Celtic. It is said that Caesar named the people of the land "Belgians.
The New Testament (Gospel of Mark 16; 46) tells us that Joseph took Jesus down from the cross and wrapped him in linen fabric
The King of Hearts is said to be modeled after Karl the Great.
Hand-embroidered story of the succession to the throne of Edward, King of England, leading up to the conquest of England by Guillaume, Duke of Normandy.
Queen Elizabeth in plain linen "colobium sindonis" at her coronation in 1953
Reasons for the flower language of gratitude and kindness
So why was linen used on so many sacred and important occasions throughout history? The reason is summed up in the language of flowers. The language of flowers of flax is "gratitude" and "kindness. This plant is a very useful plant with very few parts to throw away. The seeds, called flaxseed, become linseed oil, varnish, and linoleum; the fibers become yarn, paper, and mats; other by-products become gardening and insulation materials; and the last remaining parts are compost. As described above, flax is a very useful plant for human life. It is no wonder that the language of flowers means gratitude and kindness. Linen is a precious fiber from such an important plant. It seems only natural that humanity would want to respect it. This will continue to be the case in the future.
The dainty little flowers are also ephemeral, falling off in a few hours after they bloom in the morning.
Why are people attracted to linen?
And while linen has become such an object of appreciation, there is another reason why it has captured the hearts and minds of people for such a long period of time since the beginning of time. It is because the functions and properties of linen enrich people's hearts and minds. Let us list some of the reasons.
1. "Peace of mind" because it is clean and usable
Linen is absorbent and dries quickly, making it suitable for dishcloths and towels for wiping the body, as it prevents the growth of bacteria. It also has the characteristic of fibers that become whiter and whiter with repeated washing. Linen is a textile that is not only easy to use but also looks clean.
Highly absorbent and dries quickly, so it is always clean.
2. "Trustworthiness" because it's long-lasting
The more linen is used and washed, the softer and softer the fibers become. When new, linen has a firmness, but after years of use, it becomes surprisingly soft and pleasant to the touch, making it a pleasure to use. In addition, the naturally uneven and uneven yarns give the fabric a rustic appearance, but in fact, it can be used for a long time without getting tired of it.
The more you wash it, the softer it gets, so you can enjoy the time to nurture its texture.
3. "Happiness" because it's healthy to use.
Linen is highly breathable and moisture absorbent, allowing the skin to breathe freely. This means that linen is warm in winter and cool in summer, keeping you comfortable throughout the year. The fiber itself is also smooth, so dust, sand, and hair are less likely to adhere to it, making it an easy fabric to control the onset of allergies.
Linen bedding that feels dry to the touch and allows for a good night's sleep without getting damp.
As mentioned above, the benefit of using linen is to improve both mental and physical health. This is the main reason why linen has been loved by people from ancient times to the present day.
Tenjin-Factory's Linen Fabrics
1. Raw Materials
The raw materials used to make textiles are vital. Good raw materials produce good yarn, which in turn produces good fabric. France and Belgium are major producers of flax, the raw material for linen yarn, and they continue to grow the best flax in Europe. We use yarn spun from this flax.
Oeko-Tex certified linen yarn of high quality European raw material
2. Design
Seeing and touching can change a person's mind. We have all had the experience of feeling happy and energized just by looking at something, or feeling pleasant and healed just by touching it. I believe that is what is at the core of what we do when we design.
We aim to create a design that makes you want to touch it.
3. Craftsmanship
Because linen is a naturally occurring material, no two pieces of linen are the same. In the dyeing process, it is difficult to produce the same color due to differences in temperature, humidity, and air pressure, etc. In the weaving process, the condition of the woven cloth changes from time to time due to changes in the condition of the yarn. The best way to maintain quality in response to such unforeseen changes in conditions is to do it by hand. Human workers are able to respond flexibly to the situation at any given time.
More processes are done by hand
4 Tools
Tools are only an aid to humans. The subject is the person. The best linen fabrics are produced by skillful use of tools. In this respect, shuttle looms are the closest to handlooms and can efficiently weave soft and warm fabrics. The selvedges, the both edges of the cloth, are the distinguishing mark. It is also a sign that it is made the same way as antique linen.
Shuttle looms are no longer manufactured today. Shuttle is a tool used to weave weft yarns
The selvedges at both ends are proof that this is woven by the shuttle loom like an old-fashioned cloth
Learning from Linens
The flax plant, from which linen is made, grows only with nutrients from the soil and natural rainfall. In other words, when we make or use linen products, we humans are temporarily utilizing something that the earth has nurtured. From another perspective, it can be said that we are being temporarily lent. What is borrowed must always be returned in its original state. One-way production and consumption can only lead to bankruptcy. Resources on the earth are limited. I believe that circulating them is necessary to realize a sustainable world. This is what I have learned through the production of linen textiles.
Read more
“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
What is Linen?
Superior agricultural crops since time immemorial
Linen is a textile product made from a certain plant. The plant is flax, or flax in English. From flax, fiber is extracted to make yarn, which is then woven into cloth. The cultivation of flax has a long history: fragments of linen textiles dating back 36,000 years were discovered in a cave in present-day Georgia, in the Caucasus region between the Caspian Sea and the Black Sea. 7,000 years ago, flax was cultivated in ancient Egypt, as evidenced by wall paintings and mummies excavated there. Thus, flax is an agricultural crop that has been cultivated since prehistoric times. The fiber that becomes the thread is located just inside the epidermis of the plant's slender, straight stalk, the part of the plant that is like insulation for a house. These fibers are soft and silky, and their suppleness prevents the stem from breaking. The fiber is also hollow, which allows it to hold and release water and air. Fibers with these functions are bundled together to make yarn and then woven. The fabric is supple, yet absorbs water and dries quickly, and by containing air, it naturally regulates temperature. Flax normally grows only with natural rainfall. It is a very sustainable plant that has a low impact on both the economy and the environment because it does not require irrigation projects such as pumping water from rivers, lakes, or even underground for watering purposes. The seeds can be used to make linseed oil, making it an excellent agricultural crop with little waste. France is the largest grower of flax , and its center is in the Flanders region, which extends into Belgium. These three countries, plus the Netherlands, currently grow 85% of the world's flax.
Flax flowering. The seeds can be used to produce flaxseed oil, which is an excellent agricultural crop that has no parts to be thrown away.
Flax stalks refined after harvesting. The fiber contained within becomes linen, which is a very difficult process that requires many steps and know-how to extract.
A fiber bundle called sliver before being spun into yarn. It is shiny and very beautiful. It is smooth, supple, soft, and warm.
History tells the value of linen
Linen has a long history and is said to be the oldest fiber in the world. Today, it is the only vegetable fiber produced in Europe, and it is also a rare fiber, accounting for only 0.4% of all fibers used in the world. Linen, with its long history and rarity, has been closely associated with many historical figures. In ancient Egypt, linen was treated as a sacred fabric, and murals of its cultivation can still be seen in the pyramids. The mummy of Tutankhamun, the great discovery of the century, was dressed in pure white linen, a symbol of holiness. Alexander the Great of Greece and Macedonia successfully expanded his territory by making linothorax, a very hard armor made of layers of linen cloth and oxidized with linseed oil. It is said that Julius Caesar was so impressed by the high quality of linen fabrics in Flanders, which he visited during the Gallic Wars, that he gave the country its name, Berrigy. The Turin Sacred Cloth, which is said to have wrapped the body of "Jesus Christ," is made of linen. The Bayeux Tapestry, a famous historical artifact of 11th century France and England, is a 50cm wide by 70m long linen cloth embroidered with a magnificent story. The Bayeux Tapestry is a famous historical artifact of 11th century France and England. In modern times, Queen Elizabeth wore a white plain-weave linen garment called the Corrobium Sindonis at her coronation, in keeping with the tradition of the British royal family. Linen has been used for sacred occasions since ancient times and has been used by historical figures on important occasions. Today, linen is treated as an important textile, so much so that it is sold as antique linen and vintage linen.
Mural depicts flax cultivation
In the time of Alexander the Great, linen armor was the standard defensive equipment of the heavily armed infantry armies of the Greek city-states
The Flemish region was called Bel'ch, which means flax in Celtic. It is said that Caesar named the people of the land "Belgians.
The New Testament (Gospel of Mark 16; 46) tells us that Joseph took Jesus down from the cross and wrapped him in linen fabric
The King of Hearts is said to be modeled after Karl the Great.
Hand-embroidered story of the succession to the throne of Edward, King of England, leading up to the conquest of England by Guillaume, Duke of Normandy.
Queen Elizabeth in plain linen "colobium sindonis" at her coronation in 1953
Reasons for the flower language of gratitude and kindness
So why was linen used on so many sacred and important occasions throughout history? The reason is summed up in the language of flowers. The language of flowers of flax is "gratitude" and "kindness. This plant is a very useful plant with very few parts to throw away. The seeds, called flaxseed, become linseed oil, varnish, and linoleum; the fibers become yarn, paper, and mats; other by-products become gardening and insulation materials; and the last remaining parts are compost. As described above, flax is a very useful plant for human life. It is no wonder that the language of flowers means gratitude and kindness. Linen is a precious fiber from such an important plant. It seems only natural that humanity would want to respect it. This will continue to be the case in the future.
The dainty little flowers are also ephemeral, falling off in a few hours after they bloom in the morning.
Why are people attracted to linen?
And while linen has become such an object of appreciation, there is another reason why it has captured the hearts and minds of people for such a long period of time since the beginning of time. It is because the functions and properties of linen enrich people's hearts and minds. Let us list some of the reasons.
1. "Peace of mind" because it is clean and usable
Linen is absorbent and dries quickly, making it suitable for dishcloths and towels for wiping the body, as it prevents the growth of bacteria. It also has the characteristic of fibers that become whiter and whiter with repeated washing. Linen is a textile that is not only easy to use but also looks clean.
Highly absorbent and dries quickly, so it is always clean.
2. "Trustworthiness" because it's long-lasting
The more linen is used and washed, the softer and softer the fibers become. When new, linen has a firmness, but after years of use, it becomes surprisingly soft and pleasant to the touch, making it a pleasure to use. In addition, the naturally uneven and uneven yarns give the fabric a rustic appearance, but in fact, it can be used for a long time without getting tired of it.
The more you wash it, the softer it gets, so you can enjoy the time to nurture its texture.
3. "Happiness" because it's healthy to use.
Linen is highly breathable and moisture absorbent, allowing the skin to breathe freely. This means that linen is warm in winter and cool in summer, keeping you comfortable throughout the year. The fiber itself is also smooth, so dust, sand, and hair are less likely to adhere to it, making it an easy fabric to control the onset of allergies.
Linen bedding that feels dry to the touch and allows for a good night's sleep without getting damp.
As mentioned above, the benefit of using linen is to improve both mental and physical health. This is the main reason why linen has been loved by people from ancient times to the present day.
Tenjin-Factory's Linen Fabrics
1. Raw Materials
The raw materials used to make textiles are vital. Good raw materials produce good yarn, which in turn produces good fabric. France and Belgium are major producers of flax, the raw material for linen yarn, and they continue to grow the best flax in Europe. We use yarn spun from this flax.
Oeko-Tex certified linen yarn of high quality European raw material
2. Design
Seeing and touching can change a person's mind. We have all had the experience of feeling happy and energized just by looking at something, or feeling pleasant and healed just by touching it. I believe that is what is at the core of what we do when we design.
We aim to create a design that makes you want to touch it.
3. Craftsmanship
Because linen is a naturally occurring material, no two pieces of linen are the same. In the dyeing process, it is difficult to produce the same color due to differences in temperature, humidity, and air pressure, etc. In the weaving process, the condition of the woven cloth changes from time to time due to changes in the condition of the yarn. The best way to maintain quality in response to such unforeseen changes in conditions is to do it by hand. Human workers are able to respond flexibly to the situation at any given time.
More processes are done by hand
4 Tools
Tools are only an aid to humans. The subject is the person. The best linen fabrics are produced by skillful use of tools. In this respect, shuttle looms are the closest to handlooms and can efficiently weave soft and warm fabrics. The selvedges, the both edges of the cloth, are the distinguishing mark. It is also a sign that it is made the same way as antique linen.
Shuttle looms are no longer manufactured today. Shuttle is a tool used to weave weft yarns
The selvedges at both ends are proof that this is woven by the shuttle loom like an old-fashioned cloth
Learning from Linens
The flax plant, from which linen is made, grows only with nutrients from the soil and natural rainfall. In other words, when we make or use linen products, we humans are temporarily utilizing something that the earth has nurtured. From another perspective, it can be said that we are being temporarily lent. What is borrowed must always be returned in its original state. One-way production and consumption can only lead to bankruptcy. Resources on the earth are limited. I believe that circulating them is necessary to realize a sustainable world. This is what I have learned through the production of linen textiles.
Read more
“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
Gunnai-Jima Linen
Now, we would like to introduce Gunnai-Jima Linen. This series was inspired by silk fabrics woven in the Gunnai region of Yamanashi Prefecture in the Edo period (1603-1868), and Gunnai-Jima linen is made from the fabric woven using colors that fit in with modern life, while retaining the appearance of those days. The fabrics made with respect for the craftsmen of the time are the greatest appeal of this series.
What is Gunnai?
Yamanashi Prefecture is sometimes roughly divided into two regions. One is the area around the Kofu Basin, called Kuninaka, and the other is the area north of Mt.Fuji, called Gunnai. It is composed of 12 municipalities. Uenohara City, Kosuge Village, Tabayama Village, Otsuki City, Doshi Village, Tsuru City, Nishikatsura Town, Oshino Village, Yamanaka Lake Village, Fujiyoshida City, Fuji Kawaguchiko Town, and Narusawa Village.
Mt.Fuji from Fujiyoshida City, the central city of the Gunnai region (Arakurayama Sengen Park).
And this name "Gunnai" was associated with one of the vassals of the warloard Shingen Takeda in the 16th century of Japan.
Takeda 24 Generals" (Collection of Takeda Shrine, Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture)
One of Takeda's vassals was a man named Oyamada Nobushige. The ancestors of Oyamada clan were a powerful family based in present-day Tsuru City. They also had frequent clashes with the Takeda clan. Therefore, in opposition to "Kuninaka" around the Kofu Basin, which was the Takeda clan's territory, the name "Gunnai" was first used to refer to the Oyamada clan's territory.
From then on, this area came to be called "Gunnai".
Iwatono Castle in Otsuki City was a key castle of the Oyamada clan and is said to be one of the three best castles in the Kanto region.
After the death of Shingen, Oyamada Nobushige defected to Takeda Katsuyori ( Shingen's son ), but after the fall of the Takeda family, he was destroyed by the combined forces of Nobunaga and Ieyasu for his disloyalty to Takeda.
This region was then ruled by Nagamasa Asai, a vassal of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and Nagamasa's vassals became lords and built Katsuyama Castle in Yamura, Tsuru City. (According to recent research, the Oyamada clan had already begun construction of this castle as a strategic castle during the Sengoku period.)
Katsuyama Castle was located on a mountain called Oshiroyama, on the opposite bank of the Katsura River from Yamura Station on the Fujikyu Railway.
In the Tokugawa era, the Torii clan established the Yamura clan and entered this castle. The Akimoto clan followed. The promotion of silk fabrics by the Akimoto clan had a great impact on the development of textiles in this area.
Yasutomo Akimoto, who became lord of the Yamura domain after being transferred from Jyoshu Ueno Soja (Gunma Prefecture).
Gunnai-Hira
If Yasutomo Akimoto had not come to the Gunnai region, the history of textiles in this area might have been different. This is because the Akimoto family encouraged its vassals to produce silk fabrics as an inside job.
image
At that time, vassals of small clans such as the Yamura clan often supplemented their income by moonlighting. Therefore, Akimoto's vassals wove silk fabrics for summer hakama. This textile was "Gunnai-Hira". Beginning with the first generation Yasumoto, and continuing with his son and grandson for three generations of 72 years, this Gunnai-Hira weaving technique was transplanted to the farming villages of Gunnai.
Shogun Yoshinobu Tokugawa dressed in Hakama
The key point is that Gunnai-Hira is "for summer use". If it was to be used in summer, it should have been thin and lightweight. It also needed to be sturdy.
To travel around the country like Ryoma Sakamoto, Hakama also needs sturdiness.
To meet the above conditions, silk was the perfect choice at the time. First of all, silk is ideal for making thin fabrics because it can be made into fine threads. Also, if fine threads are woven at high density, the cloth becomes light and strong.
Silk produces the finest yarn of all natural fibers.
The techniques for making such fabrics spread throughout the region, and a variety of silk fabrics were produced. It would seem that this is attributable to "Gunnai-Hira".
Gunnai-Jima popular in the Edo period
In an Edo period book, "Bankin Sigiwai Bukuro" , it is written, "Silk fabrics made in Koshu Yamura are of good quality."
An old Book said to have been written in the Edo period.
A variety of elegant silk fabrics were woven in Yamura, the castle town of the Yamura clan. One of them was called Gunnai-Jima. Jima means stripes. This Gunnai-Jima was very popular among the merchants of Kamigata (Kyoto and Osaka), the center of Genroku culture. The fact that it appears in numerous works by cultural figures representing the Genroku period is proof of this.
Ihara Saikaku 「 Koshoku Ichidai Otoko 」(1682)
"...I went to the bathhouse to do a thing with you, as my heart desired, but Yoshi found me, and I promised her a 'Gunnai-Jima' for his grief and various other reasons..."
Chikamatsu Monzaemon 「 Shinju Yoi Goshin 」(1722)
"On the sixth day of the sixth month of April, a carpet is laid on the grass in the morning dew. The name of the deceased is still missing on the carpet. The age is 39, "Gunnai-Jima", stained with blood and red. On the clothes..."
Jyuppennsha Ikku ( 1765-1831 )
十辺舎一九（1765-1831）
Even after the Genroku era, Gunnai-Jima continued to gain popularity. The late-Edo Bunka-Bunsei period playwright Jyuppennsha Ikku's "Provinces on the Road: Golden Sandals," Part XII - Minobu Douchu no Ki, contains the following Japanese poetry.
"I came to the famous Gunnai-Jima production area. A spring haze like a chambray silk fabric spread out is visible"
From Gunnai-Jima to striped Kaiki
What kind of fabric was the Gunnai-Jima that became so popular? Unfortunately, there are no actual examples left. What is known is that it was used as the outer fabric of kimono. In the time that followed, silk fabric called "Kaiki" woven in the Gunnai region was used for the lining of Haori, so Gunnai-Jima is thought to have had a different texture from this. However, it is believed that the design characteristics of Gunnai-Jima were inherited to Kaiki.
So, by showing you one group of Kaiki, we will try to let you know what kind of fabric Gunnai-Jima was.
Here, please note that the following materials are from the Meiji to Taisho periods, and the dyes are considered to be different from those of the Edo period, so the colors should be viewed as reference only.
Gunnai-Jima Linen is the modern reincarnation of Gunnai-Jima Silk Fabric.
So, what did you think?
We can imagine the perseverance of the craftsmen of that time. Even when there was no electricity, they were making such intricate textiles only by hand.
We are moved by the fact that there used to be people who made textiles that were loved by people in our region, and we decided to pay homage to Gunnai-Jima Silk. And we would like to make linen that is loved like it.
Gunnai-jima Linen that we made.
Read more
“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
Gunnai-Jima Linen
Now, we would like to introduce Gunnai-Jima Linen. This series was inspired by silk fabrics woven in the Gunnai region of Yamanashi Prefecture in the Edo period (1603-1868), and Gunnai-Jima linen is made from the fabric woven using colors that fit in with modern life, while retaining the appearance of those days. The fabrics made with respect for the craftsmen of the time are the greatest appeal of this series.
What is Gunnai?
Yamanashi Prefecture is sometimes roughly divided into two regions. One is the area around the Kofu Basin, called Kuninaka, and the other is the area north of Mt.Fuji, called Gunnai. It is composed of 12 municipalities. Uenohara City, Kosuge Village, Tabayama Village, Otsuki City, Doshi Village, Tsuru City, Nishikatsura Town, Oshino Village, Yamanaka Lake Village, Fujiyoshida City, Fuji Kawaguchiko Town, and Narusawa Village.
Mt.Fuji from Fujiyoshida City, the central city of the Gunnai region (Arakurayama Sengen Park).
And this name "Gunnai" was associated with one of the vassals of the warloard Shingen Takeda in the 16th century of Japan.
Takeda 24 Generals" (Collection of Takeda Shrine, Kofu City, Yamanashi Prefecture)
One of Takeda's vassals was a man named Oyamada Nobushige. The ancestors of Oyamada clan were a powerful family based in present-day Tsuru City. They also had frequent clashes with the Takeda clan. Therefore, in opposition to "Kuninaka" around the Kofu Basin, which was the Takeda clan's territory, the name "Gunnai" was first used to refer to the Oyamada clan's territory.
From then on, this area came to be called "Gunnai".
Iwatono Castle in Otsuki City was a key castle of the Oyamada clan and is said to be one of the three best castles in the Kanto region.
After the death of Shingen, Oyamada Nobushige defected to Takeda Katsuyori ( Shingen's son ), but after the fall of the Takeda family, he was destroyed by the combined forces of Nobunaga and Ieyasu for his disloyalty to Takeda.
This region was then ruled by Nagamasa Asai, a vassal of Hideyoshi Toyotomi, and Nagamasa's vassals became lords and built Katsuyama Castle in Yamura, Tsuru City. (According to recent research, the Oyamada clan had already begun construction of this castle as a strategic castle during the Sengoku period.)
Katsuyama Castle was located on a mountain called Oshiroyama, on the opposite bank of the Katsura River from Yamura Station on the Fujikyu Railway.
In the Tokugawa era, the Torii clan established the Yamura clan and entered this castle. The Akimoto clan followed. The promotion of silk fabrics by the Akimoto clan had a great impact on the development of textiles in this area.
Yasutomo Akimoto, who became lord of the Yamura domain after being transferred from Jyoshu Ueno Soja (Gunma Prefecture).
Gunnai-Hira
If Yasutomo Akimoto had not come to the Gunnai region, the history of textiles in this area might have been different. This is because the Akimoto family encouraged its vassals to produce silk fabrics as an inside job.
image
At that time, vassals of small clans such as the Yamura clan often supplemented their income by moonlighting. Therefore, Akimoto's vassals wove silk fabrics for summer hakama. This textile was "Gunnai-Hira". Beginning with the first generation Yasumoto, and continuing with his son and grandson for three generations of 72 years, this Gunnai-Hira weaving technique was transplanted to the farming villages of Gunnai.
Shogun Yoshinobu Tokugawa dressed in Hakama
The key point is that Gunnai-Hira is "for summer use". If it was to be used in summer, it should have been thin and lightweight. It also needed to be sturdy.
To travel around the country like Ryoma Sakamoto, Hakama also needs sturdiness.
To meet the above conditions, silk was the perfect choice at the time. First of all, silk is ideal for making thin fabrics because it can be made into fine threads. Also, if fine threads are woven at high density, the cloth becomes light and strong.
Silk produces the finest yarn of all natural fibers.
The techniques for making such fabrics spread throughout the region, and a variety of silk fabrics were produced. It would seem that this is attributable to "Gunnai-Hira".
Gunnai-Jima popular in the Edo period
In an Edo period book, "Bankin Sigiwai Bukuro" , it is written, "Silk fabrics made in Koshu Yamura are of good quality."
An old Book said to have been written in the Edo period.
A variety of elegant silk fabrics were woven in Yamura, the castle town of the Yamura clan. One of them was called Gunnai-Jima. Jima means stripes. This Gunnai-Jima was very popular among the merchants of Kamigata (Kyoto and Osaka), the center of Genroku culture. The fact that it appears in numerous works by cultural figures representing the Genroku period is proof of this.
Ihara Saikaku 「 Koshoku Ichidai Otoko 」(1682)
"...I went to the bathhouse to do a thing with you, as my heart desired, but Yoshi found me, and I promised her a 'Gunnai-Jima' for his grief and various other reasons..."
Chikamatsu Monzaemon 「 Shinju Yoi Goshin 」(1722)
"On the sixth day of the sixth month of April, a carpet is laid on the grass in the morning dew. The name of the deceased is still missing on the carpet. The age is 39, "Gunnai-Jima", stained with blood and red. On the clothes..."
Jyuppennsha Ikku ( 1765-1831 )
十辺舎一九（1765-1831）
Even after the Genroku era, Gunnai-Jima continued to gain popularity. The late-Edo Bunka-Bunsei period playwright Jyuppennsha Ikku's "Provinces on the Road: Golden Sandals," Part XII - Minobu Douchu no Ki, contains the following Japanese poetry.
"I came to the famous Gunnai-Jima production area. A spring haze like a chambray silk fabric spread out is visible"
From Gunnai-Jima to striped Kaiki
What kind of fabric was the Gunnai-Jima that became so popular? Unfortunately, there are no actual examples left. What is known is that it was used as the outer fabric of kimono. In the time that followed, silk fabric called "Kaiki" woven in the Gunnai region was used for the lining of Haori, so Gunnai-Jima is thought to have had a different texture from this. However, it is believed that the design characteristics of Gunnai-Jima were inherited to Kaiki.
So, by showing you one group of Kaiki, we will try to let you know what kind of fabric Gunnai-Jima was.
Here, please note that the following materials are from the Meiji to Taisho periods, and the dyes are considered to be different from those of the Edo period, so the colors should be viewed as reference only.
Gunnai-Jima Linen is the modern reincarnation of Gunnai-Jima Silk Fabric.
So, what did you think?
We can imagine the perseverance of the craftsmen of that time. Even when there was no electricity, they were making such intricate textiles only by hand.
We are moved by the fact that there used to be people who made textiles that were loved by people in our region, and we decided to pay homage to Gunnai-Jima Silk. And we would like to make linen that is loved like it.
Gunnai-jima Linen that we made.
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“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
Yarn-dyed Linen Daily Bag
Now, we would like to introduce our Yarn-dyed Daily Bag. Its fabric is a yarn-dyed linen fabric woven in our own factory. Of course, it is selvedge linen. The luster and coloring unique to yarn-dyed linen fabrics look just like a silk scarf. We hope that you will use this cloth bag as your companion when you go out for shopping, etc., with the same excitement as when you go out wearing your favorite scarf.
The Origami Culture
Let's take a quick look at what AZUMA BUKURO is all about. When you look at how it is made, you will be amazed at its wisdom. Please look at the diagram below.
First, prepare a rectangular piece of cloth. Fold it into three equal parts.
Next, sew A and B together at the red dotted line.
Then, insert C between A and B, which were sewn together earlier, and now sew B and C together at the green dotted line.
Finally, turn it over and you are done.
What do you think? Just two stitches are all it takes to make a bag. And if you have a rectangle of fabric, you don't even need scissors. I think that perhaps it comes from the origami culture.
The Washable Bag
One of the advantages of linen is that it dries quickly after washing.
Sturdily Sewn
Now let's look at the details. Our main concern is its sturdy construction. It is designed to withstand considerable weight.
All seams are double stitched.
For example, two 5 kg bags of rice (10 kg in total) can be put in it with no problem.
Some customers say that the fabric of this bag is thick and soft to the touch, even when holding heavy objects, so fingers do not get sore.
It can be used in a variety of ways, such as hanging on the shoulder, hanging on the arm, or as a handbag, by changing the position of the tie according to the amount of luggage.
If you wash it in the washing machine as soon as you get home, any dirt or viruses that may be bothering you will be washed away clean.
Cheerful Colors
Now let's talk about color. It is said that color has the power to move emotions. Therefore, we decided to use a combination of colors that would be bright and cheerful. What do you think? Doesn't it make you feel cheerful just by looking at them?
Currently, there are 9 color cmbinations. Have you ever found favorite one?
Read more
“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
Yarn-dyed Linen Daily Bag
Now, we would like to introduce our Yarn-dyed Daily Bag. Its fabric is a yarn-dyed linen fabric woven in our own factory. Of course, it is selvedge linen. The luster and coloring unique to yarn-dyed linen fabrics look just like a silk scarf. We hope that you will use this cloth bag as your companion when you go out for shopping, etc., with the same excitement as when you go out wearing your favorite scarf.
The Origami Culture
Let's take a quick look at what AZUMA BUKURO is all about. When you look at how it is made, you will be amazed at its wisdom. Please look at the diagram below.
First, prepare a rectangular piece of cloth. Fold it into three equal parts.
Next, sew A and B together at the red dotted line.
Then, insert C between A and B, which were sewn together earlier, and now sew B and C together at the green dotted line.
Finally, turn it over and you are done.
What do you think? Just two stitches are all it takes to make a bag. And if you have a rectangle of fabric, you don't even need scissors. I think that perhaps it comes from the origami culture.
The Washable Bag
One of the advantages of linen is that it dries quickly after washing.
Sturdily Sewn
Now let's look at the details. Our main concern is its sturdy construction. It is designed to withstand considerable weight.
All seams are double stitched.
For example, two 5 kg bags of rice (10 kg in total) can be put in it with no problem.
Some customers say that the fabric of this bag is thick and soft to the touch, even when holding heavy objects, so fingers do not get sore.
It can be used in a variety of ways, such as hanging on the shoulder, hanging on the arm, or as a handbag, by changing the position of the tie according to the amount of luggage.
If you wash it in the washing machine as soon as you get home, any dirt or viruses that may be bothering you will be washed away clean.
Cheerful Colors
Now let's talk about color. It is said that color has the power to move emotions. Therefore, we decided to use a combination of colors that would be bright and cheerful. What do you think? Doesn't it make you feel cheerful just by looking at them?
Currently, there are 9 color cmbinations. Have you ever found favorite one?
Read more
“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
Folding weave Blanket＆Folding weave linen large cloth
Now, I would like to introduce the Folding Weave Series. It sounds somewhat unfamiliar, doesn't it? That is as it should be. The name "folding weave" is a term I coined. To explain it simply, this textile is like a newspaper. When you read a newspaper, it is folded vertically and unfolded. This textile is folded in two just like a newspaper. I will explain what this means step by step.
During the weaving process, the cloth becomes like a newspaper folded in two.
This is what it looks like during weaving.
As unfolded the newspaper to open it, another piece of cloth peeked out from underneath.
The left half is checkered and the right half is plain. And the whole is a framed pattern.
Folding weave is really a double weave
First of all, double weave is woven just like two layers of cloth. Double gauze is probably the most familiar to most people. It is often used for towels and clothing. Its characteristic is that it is a "single piece of cloth" woven from two separate pieces of fabric woven as if they were layered together.
The underside (back side) of the double weave is being woven. The underside cannot be seen because many warp threads are being pulled up.
This is a view of the top side being woven. When weaving the upper surface, the warp threads for the lower surface are not needed, so the number of warp threads to be pulled up is reduced and the check pattern on the lower surface is clearly visible.
The reason for double weaving
One of the usual reasons for double weaving, as in double gauze, is to soften the texture. By double weaving, the cloth is divided into upper and lower sections, and the contact points between the warp and weft yarns are reduced, resulting in a softer cloth. At the same time, the double layer of fabric becomes fluffy to the touch because it is filled with air.
Air layer is created between the top and bottom surfaces.
Folding weave with a different purpose than regular double weave
However, the purpose of double weaving in this product is a little different. The answer lies in the design. Let's take a look at the design. This design features a plain weave on one side, a check on the other, and a framed pattern throughout.
In the case of normal weaving, one weft thread runs from the left end to the right end. If half the textile is checkered, the other half could not be plain.
To give shape to the design
This product is a yarn-dyed fabric, meaning that the yarn is dyed first and then woven. Normally, one weft thread is woven seamlessly from the left end to the right end of the cloth. It means that the same color should continue from the left end to the right end. However, the design of this product is plain on one side and check on the other side. In a normal weave, the color of the checks should continue from one end to the other. However, that is not the case with this design. This is why we came up with the folding weave.
We thought we could give shape to the design by weaving one side (front) into a solid color and the other side (back) into a checkerboard pattern, and then unfolding it out.
Weaving unique to the shuttle loom
Our loom is a shuttle loom, which is now an obsolete loom. However, since the weft is woven in the same way as on a hand loom, a weft thread is always folded over at both ends of the cloth. It means that the weft is always connected. These two ends are called "selvage or selvedge In English. This selvage is what makes the folding weave possible.
The top and bottom surfaces are always connected at either end.
Folding weave cloth just after weaving.
The selvedges are made using a tool called a shuttle, which carries the weft yarn.
Weaving in progress.
On the right side, the cloth is clearly visible in two pieces.
The left side is not in two pieces because it is folded on this side.
We were thus able to create a checkered pattern on one side and a plain weave on the other half, but there was the last hurdle to overcome. When this product is unfolded and viewed as one large piece, it must be made into a picture frame pattern.
A picture frame pattern is like a pattern with a window frame, so weaving from the bottom to the top of the frame requires a significant amount of pattern paper. This product is more than 2m long before sewing, so the amount of pattern paper is enormous.
Once we have made a pattern paper like this, it is convenient to weave many more cloth, all of which will have the same pattern and length. One round of this paper is enough to weave one cloth. The reason this is such a large quantity of pattern paper is because the design is a framed pattern.
The double weaving technique and a large number of pattern papers are used to create this folding weave series. This is one of the proudest products.
Folding weave blanket（50％Linen, 50%Lambwool）
Folding weave lenen large cloth（100%Linen）
Finally, a piece of linen in the daily routine.
「Folding weave linen large cloth」
Read more
“Life is but a tissue of habits.”
— Henri-Frédéric Amiel
If we believe that, we can change our life by changing our habits. And I think that good habits are about having a good routine in our daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as things to accompany such a good daily routine.
Folding weave Blanket＆Folding weave linen large cloth
Now, I would like to introduce the Folding Weave Series. It sounds somewhat unfamiliar, doesn't it? That is as it should be. The name "folding weave" is a term I coined. To explain it simply, this textile is like a newspaper. When you read a newspaper, it is folded vertically and unfolded. This textile is folded in two just like a newspaper. I will explain what this means step by step.
During the weaving process, the cloth becomes like a newspaper folded in two.
This is what it looks like during weaving.
As unfolded the newspaper to open it, another piece of cloth peeked out from underneath.
The left half is checkered and the right half is plain. And the whole is a framed pattern.
Folding weave is really a double weave
First of all, double weave is woven just like two layers of cloth. Double gauze is probably the most familiar to most people. It is often used for towels and clothing. Its characteristic is that it is a "single piece of cloth" woven from two separate pieces of fabric woven as if they were layered together.
The underside (back side) of the double weave is being woven. The underside cannot be seen because many warp threads are being pulled up.
This is a view of the top side being woven. When weaving the upper surface, the warp threads for the lower surface are not needed, so the number of warp threads to be pulled up is reduced and the check pattern on the lower surface is clearly visible.
The reason for double weaving
One of the usual reasons for double weaving, as in double gauze, is to soften the texture. By double weaving, the cloth is divided into upper and lower sections, and the contact points between the warp and weft yarns are reduced, resulting in a softer cloth. At the same time, the double layer of fabric becomes fluffy to the touch because it is filled with air.
Air layer is created between the top and bottom surfaces.
Folding weave with a different purpose than regular double weave
However, the purpose of double weaving in this product is a little different. The answer lies in the design. Let's take a look at the design. This design features a plain weave on one side, a check on the other, and a framed pattern throughout.
In the case of normal weaving, one weft thread runs from the left end to the right end. If half the textile is checkered, the other half could not be plain.
To give shape to the design
This product is a yarn-dyed fabric, meaning that the yarn is dyed first and then woven. Normally, one weft thread is woven seamlessly from the left end to the right end of the cloth. It means that the same color should continue from the left end to the right end. However, the design of this product is plain on one side and check on the other side. In a normal weave, the color of the checks should continue from one end to the other. However, that is not the case with this design. This is why we came up with the folding weave.
We thought we could give shape to the design by weaving one side (front) into a solid color and the other side (back) into a checkerboard pattern, and then unfolding it out.
Weaving unique to the shuttle loom
Our loom is a shuttle loom, which is now an obsolete loom. However, since the weft is woven in the same way as on a hand loom, a weft thread is always folded over at both ends of the cloth. It means that the weft is always connected. These two ends are called "selvage or selvedge In English. This selvage is what makes the folding weave possible.
The top and bottom surfaces are always connected at either end.
Folding weave cloth just after weaving.
The selvedges are made using a tool called a shuttle, which carries the weft yarn.
Weaving in progress.
On the right side, the cloth is clearly visible in two pieces.
The left side is not in two pieces because it is folded on this side.
We were thus able to create a checkered pattern on one side and a plain weave on the other half, but there was the last hurdle to overcome. When this product is unfolded and viewed as one large piece, it must be made into a picture frame pattern.
A picture frame pattern is like a pattern with a window frame, so weaving from the bottom to the top of the frame requires a significant amount of pattern paper. This product is more than 2m long before sewing, so the amount of pattern paper is enormous.
Once we have made a pattern paper like this, it is convenient to weave many more cloth, all of which will have the same pattern and length. One round of this paper is enough to weave one cloth. The reason this is such a large quantity of pattern paper is because the design is a framed pattern.
The double weaving technique and a large number of pattern papers are used to create this folding weave series. This is one of the proudest products.
Folding weave blanket（50％Linen, 50%Lambwool）
Folding weave lenen large cloth（100%Linen）
Finally, a piece of linen in the daily routine.
「Folding weave linen large cloth」