What is Linen? Differences from hemp and characteristics of linen

THE ROUTINE LINEN ( 14 )

“Life is but a tissue of habits.”

— Henri-Frédéric Amiel

If you believe that, you can change your life by changing your habits. And I believe that good habits are about having a good routine in your daily life. In this blog, I would like to introduce our products as items to support such a good daily routine.

"What is linen?"

Tenjin Factory: A Weaver of Linen Fabric

Our company specializes in weaving, and if you ask us what kind of fabric we weave, our answer is "linen."

For those who might think, "Aren't there silk, cotton, wool, and hemp fabrics?"

You might be wondering, "What exactly is linen fabric?"

This is a natural reaction.

So, for those who have heard the word "linen" but don't know its meaning, I would like to explain linen this time.

What is Linen? The Meaning of Linen

First of all, what exactly is linen?

First, let's introduce the meaning and history of linen.

Meaning of Linen

In Japanese, linen refers to "flax yarn, flax fabric, or flax products." Roughly speaking, it refers to yarn, fabric, and products made from natural fibers derived from the flax plant (English: flax). The essential fibers are found within the stem of the flax plant.

　　Flax field

 As a material excellent in absorbency, durability, and heat retention, it is used in various products such as bedding, clothing, towels, and curtains. Compared to other plant fibers, its fibers are delicate and soft, making it a popular choice for those who prioritize a comfortable feel against the skin.

From flax to linen

 Incidentally, in facilities such as hotels and hospitals, fabric products such as sheets, towels, and tablecloths may be collectively referred to as "linen" or "linens." However, please note that this does not necessarily mean that the material is linen.

History of Linen

Archaeologists have discovered that flax, the raw material for linen, grew along the Tigris and Euphrates rivers around 8,000 BCE. Furthermore, fragments of linen fabric dating back 36,000 years have been found in a cave in Georgia, located between the Caspian and Black Seas. For this reason, it is said to be the oldest fiber known to humankind. In ancient Egypt, it was treated as a sacred cloth, and it is well-known that the cloth used to wrap mummies was also linen.

For more details on its history, please refer to "Daily Linen (10)".

In Europe, linen has been popular and known by names such as French linen, Irish linen, Belgian linen, and Lithuanian linen, depending on its production region. Durable linen products are cherished for a long time, and well-preserved antique linen is popular at flea markets.

Difference between Linen and Asa (Hemp/Flax)

Hopefully, you now have a general understanding of linen.

Next, let's look at the difference between linen and asa. Some people might think it's just a difference between English and Japanese, referring to the same thing. In Japan, linen is often referred to as asa, but linen and asa actually refer to different things.

So, from now on, we will examine what asa is.

What is Asa?

Asa is a general term for fibers derived from plants. It also refers to fabrics made from these fibers. Representative types of asa include flax (linen), ramie (choma), jute (koma), and hemp (ooasa). There are also manila hemp and sisal hemp, among others.

Spun hemp yarn. Foreground = "Seima," the fibrous part of hemp.

Linen is one type of asa. Each type has different characteristics and uses. However, historically, only flax (linen) and ramie (choma) were stipulated to be labeled as "asa" under Japan's Household Goods Quality Labeling Act. This led to the misconception that linen = asa, and ramie = asa, therefore "linen = ramie." While these two certainly look similar, their origins are different, as they come from different plants, so their properties and characteristics differ. Therefore, the law was revised in recent years, making it possible to label them as "linen" and "ramie."

This historical background explains why the distinction between linen and asa was often unclear.

Left = Ramie, Right = Linen. They look similar.

Hemp spun yarn fabric. Its unique crispness is similar to fabrics made from twisted yarns like Bashofu.

Comparison of Usability (Our Company's Data)

So, what are the differences in usability between linen and other types of hemp?

Our company has experience making fabrics from ramie and hemp. This comparison is based on that experience.

Linen fibers are fine, resulting in a soft fabric. There's also less fuzz, so it feels good against the skin and isn't prickly. In contrast, other hemp fibers are thicker, leading to a coarser, stiffer fabric. They tend to be very crisp and can feel rough or prickly. Even when looking at the yarn itself, ramie yarn has a noticeable amount of fuzz. Hemp, in terms of texture, results in a fabric that is stiffer than linen.

　　　Left = Ramie, Right = Flax (Linen). Ramie shows noticeable fuzz even in its yarn state.

Characteristics of Linen

As mentioned above, there's a reason why linen has been loved worldwide among the many types of fibers.

Let's look at the characteristics of linen here.

①Linen has excellent absorbency and quick-drying properties.

Linen fabric excels in absorbency and quick-drying properties compared to fabrics made from other natural materials like cotton and silk. It can quickly absorb moisture and release it just as quickly.

 When used as clothing or bedding, it quickly absorbs and releases sweat, keeping you feeling fresh, not sticky, and comfortable. In the kitchen, it absorbs water well and dries quickly after washing. Its absorbency increases with each wash.

Kitchen towel that can wrap and wipe dishes

②Linen is durable and long-lasting.

Linen is a very durable material that withstands repeated washing. Due to its durability, it's known that some linen products abroad have been passed down and used for over 100 years. Antique linen is also popular at flea markets.

Durable and water-resistant linen has been chosen as the material for long-lasting household items such as bedding and curtains. Even in top-tier hotels worldwide, linen materials are used in bedrooms and kitchens due to these characteristics.

③Linen is resistant to stains.

Linen material also has the characteristic of being resistant to stains penetrating its fibers and being easy to clean. This is due to the action of pectin, a component contained in linen. Since pectin coats the entire fiber, it has the property of being resistant to staining and easy to remove even if it gets dirty.

Flax fibers containing pectin

④Linen has a smooth feel.

Linen fabric's smooth feel is another of its characteristics. This is also due to the pectin contained in linen. While linen fabric is initially stiff and firm, it softens with repeated washing. Because of this characteristic, it is favored by those who dislike fuzziness or prickliness in garments.

Persimmon-dyed linen sheets. The smooth feel is enhanced.

⑤Linen has high breathability and heat retention.

Due to the straw-like hollow structure within its fibers, linen feels cool in summer as it releases excess heat, and warm in winter as it retains heat within its fibers. While some may think it's a summer-only material due to its smooth feel and cool appearance, its high breathability and heat retention make it a versatile material suitable for all seasons.

Breathable linen is recommended for hot seasons because it allows air to circulate well.

Thick linen provides warmth through its insulating effect.

Tenjin-Factory's Linen

Now, let's introduce the linen we produce.

As we've seen, the wonderful qualities of linen are inherent in nature, so there's no need for us to make special alterations. We simply strive to weave fabrics without compromising linen's inherent goodness.

Therefore, we carefully use traditional shuttle looms, which are our chosen tools, and meticulously weave linen fabrics one by one. We handle kitchen linen, bath linen, bed linen, curtains, linen wear, and more. While creating products we ourselves would want to use for a long time, we convey the charm of linen that grows with use.

Weaving fabric with our cherished shuttle looms

At Tenjin Factory, we use traditional shuttle looms, which operate on the same principle as handlooms, to weave linen fabric. These are not machines designed for high-speed, mass production. We meticulously weave the fabric, taking our time and incorporating human touch.

 TraditionalShuttle Loom

The boat-shaped tool that carries the weft thread is the shuttle.

One of the defining characteristics of a shuttle loom is that it places minimal stress on the yarn. As the weft thread moves slowly in a gentle arc, it creates a subtle three-dimensional texture in the linen, resulting in a soft, airy finish.

Another feature of shuttle looms is that they produce fabric with finished edges on both sides, known as “selvedge.” Linen woven in this way is often referred to as “selvedge linen.” We create original products that make use of these beautiful selvedge edges as part of the design.

In this process, a tool called a shuttle carries the weft thread across the warp. Because only the amount of thread wound onto a small wooden bobbin can be used at a time, the loom stops every few minutes. Each time, the bobbin inside the shuttle must be replaced by hand. This repetitive task continues until the entire length of the warp has been woven.

While this method does not allow for mass production, we remain dedicated to each piece, carefully crafting our textiles one by one.

The navy part is the "selvage," proof that it was woven on a shuttle loom.

About our carefully selected linen yarn and pre-dyeing

The linen yarn used at Tenjin Factory is made from flax sourced from prominent regions in France and Belgium. After dyeing this carefully selected linen yarn in colors that blend into everyday life, it is meticulously woven. This method of pre-dyeing the linen yarn before weaving, although time-consuming, allows the dye to penetrate deeply into the core, resulting in fabrics with rich, beautiful colors. Finally, the fabric is washed with high-quality melted snow water for finishing, creating a linen fabric with a gentle texture.

Our Dedicated System

Tenjin Factory's small size is one of its commitments. In our small factory at the foot of Mount Fuji, weavers, finishers, and planning staff work in close proximity, sharing ideas and collaborating on product creation. There is also a showroom on the same premises.

Showroom & Shop by appointment only

Summary　

So far, we've covered the differences between linen and hemp, the characteristics of linen, and Tenjin Factory's linen products. What did you think?

We recommend starting with small items like kitchen cloths to experience their absorbency, feel, and the way they improve with use. Why not incorporate high-quality linen into your life?